Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
10:12:53pm
Kelly
Login to Like
this post
I'd soak it. Consider that the adhesions may contain acidic paper, which will ruin the stamp over time anyway.
Login to Like
this post
10:49:24pm
Thanks Michael -
Ok - if I do soak it, what's the best way? I usually use the regular old fashion soak method (I never succeeded figuring out a sweatbox and don't have the patience to do it).
Considering we're talking about (in this case) two particular stamps in excess of CV $100 with one watermark and CV $60 with the other watermark (roughly), one has 4 nice clear margins and the other has 2 nice clear margins and the other two close cut but not cut into the stamp itself.
I'm trying to weigh out my options. It's not imperative that I have the CV but I am curious to know which watermarks are on them.
I have a similar scenario with two other stamps - one option is that it has a watermark and the other is that there is no watermark - difference in CV? Significant!
Not exactly something I'm keen on tossing a coin on so I do appreciate the input.
Login to Like
this post
If the adhesions are small, you can use watermark fluid, especially for the hinge remnant. Otherwise, put it in water like any other soakable stamp. You didn't mention what stamps these are. You just need to verify if the stamp was printed in aniline ink before soaking. If aniline ink, don't soak it.
Login to Like
this post
I would soak the stamp if the remnants prevent a proper ID, but maybe not before some other steps, such as dipping in lighter fluid.
I suppose, however, I might have trepidations soaking a stamp that was worth thousands. I sometimes attempt to remove the hinges by less drastic means first, using a moist Q-tip and a slow patient process I won't describe here, but not recommended if you haven't practiced to the point of extreme confidence using cheap stamps.
I just recently soaked a couple pre-1900 stamps worth about $300-400 each with no problems. I didn't know they were the rare varieties at the time. I was removing hinge remnants to make identification easier.
But in the past I have soaked what might have been valuable stamps only to find they had repairs. Of course, the repairs fell apart in the soaking and I was somewhat taken aback at first. Later I thought it was better to know the repairs were there than not (but I should have dipped in lighter fluid first to look for repairs before soaking).
Login to Like
this post
I have soaked thousands of stamps with great success. Never a problem with pre 1900 stamps. I use a laundry tub, put in about 3 inches of water, and insert stamps. Let soak for at least 15 minutes and then swirl them around to get the ones still adhered off the paper. I then carefully raise the stamps out of the water and place on a really flat surface. Glass works best or Formica countertops. I happen to use granite, but it needs to be smooth. Place the stamps upside down, blot with a folded paper towel to remove as much excess water as possible and let air dry. In about an hour you will have pristine un-gummed stamps. All the old paper, hinges, old glue. It's gone. WARNING - Never put the gummed side down to dry. Any residue of gum will stick it down and you will ruin it trying to loosen. Once stuck down you have to resort to re-wetting to loosen it up.
A couple more secrets. 1-Always inspect your stamps before soaking. Make sure they are not torn or have been repaired. 2. Later issue stamps, like the Scotts #1036 - Lincoln
bleed the red ink onto other stamps and destroy them. 3. Colored paper many times bleeds and destroys other stamps that may be soaked together. Yellow's and red's are the worse, but I have had issues with all colors. I sort all the stamps I want to soak by paper color and then do only a few at a time. With practice you get to recognize the paper that is a potential issue. Soak them for only a short time, peel the stamp off and dispose of the old paper quickly. The drips off the paper is sometimes very nasty and can stain anything it touches.
Good luck and keep us posted on your success.
Login to Like
this post
03:16:13pm
My procedure is essentially the same except I use old copies of the Vance Auction bid list.
I will take their advertizement apart and put two whole sheets together (Four pages ) then fold till I have a drying platform about standard letter size. As the wet stamps are placed on the paper panels, I can set the first panel off to the side and start a second and third panel. In Florida, most of the time they dry pretty fast and the stamps can be removed. The paper panels dry quickly also and can be put away and used over and over until they start to look tatty.
As the stamps separate from the cut corners I usually fish them out and set them into a second small tub of clear water which I often flush at least once before picking the washed stamps out to go on the paper drying panels so that there is no residue of th glue that will complicate matters by causing the stamps to stick to the panels.
Login to Like
this post
Charlie - same thing I do except I have not tried an absorbing material to place the stamps on. I think I did at one time and found that placing on a flat surface the stamps are perfectly flat when dry. I can even work wrinkles out of ones that have been abused. But you are right, get all the old gum dissolved and off the stamps before drying. Only issues are the newer self-adhesive stamps which are another whole story and process. Don't get them wet with water, use lighter fluid.
Login to Like
this post
07:54:20pm
I have no problems with the soaking part - my nerves just start playing games when I see and 1850ish imperf stamp and think - Oh God, what if I destroy it by soaking it - do I really need it identified that badly??
Login to Like
this post
Kelly - I can appreciate your fears. When I was a young boy just getting started I destroyed lot of old stamps because I did not know what I was doing. Today, I would be able to save those expertly with no fear. If it something I think is really valuable I might soak it all by itself and stand there the whole time watching in case something goes wrong. Having something left is better than nothing at all, but this has happened so infrequently that I do not fear it anymore. Usually I damage stamps because I get impatient and do not let them soak long enough. I have actually had some that soaked for several days because I forgot about them. They all turned out just fine.
Good luck on conquering your fear.
Login to Like
this post
12:53:58pm
Impatience has probably ruined as many good collectable stamps as the pernicious use of a magic marker.
I prefer to start a second batch of fifty or a hundred or so to keep my inquisitive fingers busy while the first batch dries.
As soon as the stamps are reasonably dry I slip them into another of those used Express Mail cardboard envelopes that can be either put under a very heavy history book, or shoved between albums where the envelope with its contents can be kept squeezed tightly.
Then when I have the stamps all soaked and dried, they ca be removed and sorted, generally remaining flat long enough to be mounted in a album. I believe curling is a function of residual glue having remained on the stamp and causing the stamp to want to impersonate the St Louis Arch.
" .... Only issues are the newer self-adhesive stamps which are another whole story and process. ....
More like riding the night mare across the tundra.
Login to Like
this post
A Service Dog gives a person with a disability independence. Never approach, distract or pet a working dog, especially when (s)he is in harness. Never be afraid to ask questions to the handler (parent).
16 Oct 2013
10:12:53pm
This is a revision of a previous thread I posted (and deleted). If you had an Imperf (Genuine) pre-1860 would you soak it to discern the watermark (if possible). Hinge remnants, paper, etc prevent a complete ID on the watermark but is it worth the risk?
Kelly
Login to Like
this post
10:37:48pm
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
I'd soak it. Consider that the adhesions may contain acidic paper, which will ruin the stamp over time anyway.
Login to Like
this post
A Service Dog gives a person with a disability independence. Never approach, distract or pet a working dog, especially when (s)he is in harness. Never be afraid to ask questions to the handler (parent).
16 Oct 2013
10:49:24pm
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
Thanks Michael -
Ok - if I do soak it, what's the best way? I usually use the regular old fashion soak method (I never succeeded figuring out a sweatbox and don't have the patience to do it).
Considering we're talking about (in this case) two particular stamps in excess of CV $100 with one watermark and CV $60 with the other watermark (roughly), one has 4 nice clear margins and the other has 2 nice clear margins and the other two close cut but not cut into the stamp itself.
I'm trying to weigh out my options. It's not imperative that I have the CV but I am curious to know which watermarks are on them.
I have a similar scenario with two other stamps - one option is that it has a watermark and the other is that there is no watermark - difference in CV? Significant!
Not exactly something I'm keen on tossing a coin on so I do appreciate the input.
Login to Like
this post
11:21:24pm
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
If the adhesions are small, you can use watermark fluid, especially for the hinge remnant. Otherwise, put it in water like any other soakable stamp. You didn't mention what stamps these are. You just need to verify if the stamp was printed in aniline ink before soaking. If aniline ink, don't soak it.
Login to Like
this post
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
I would soak the stamp if the remnants prevent a proper ID, but maybe not before some other steps, such as dipping in lighter fluid.
I suppose, however, I might have trepidations soaking a stamp that was worth thousands. I sometimes attempt to remove the hinges by less drastic means first, using a moist Q-tip and a slow patient process I won't describe here, but not recommended if you haven't practiced to the point of extreme confidence using cheap stamps.
I just recently soaked a couple pre-1900 stamps worth about $300-400 each with no problems. I didn't know they were the rare varieties at the time. I was removing hinge remnants to make identification easier.
But in the past I have soaked what might have been valuable stamps only to find they had repairs. Of course, the repairs fell apart in the soaking and I was somewhat taken aback at first. Later I thought it was better to know the repairs were there than not (but I should have dipped in lighter fluid first to look for repairs before soaking).
Login to Like
this post
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
I have soaked thousands of stamps with great success. Never a problem with pre 1900 stamps. I use a laundry tub, put in about 3 inches of water, and insert stamps. Let soak for at least 15 minutes and then swirl them around to get the ones still adhered off the paper. I then carefully raise the stamps out of the water and place on a really flat surface. Glass works best or Formica countertops. I happen to use granite, but it needs to be smooth. Place the stamps upside down, blot with a folded paper towel to remove as much excess water as possible and let air dry. In about an hour you will have pristine un-gummed stamps. All the old paper, hinges, old glue. It's gone. WARNING - Never put the gummed side down to dry. Any residue of gum will stick it down and you will ruin it trying to loosen. Once stuck down you have to resort to re-wetting to loosen it up.
A couple more secrets. 1-Always inspect your stamps before soaking. Make sure they are not torn or have been repaired. 2. Later issue stamps, like the Scotts #1036 - Lincoln
bleed the red ink onto other stamps and destroy them. 3. Colored paper many times bleeds and destroys other stamps that may be soaked together. Yellow's and red's are the worse, but I have had issues with all colors. I sort all the stamps I want to soak by paper color and then do only a few at a time. With practice you get to recognize the paper that is a potential issue. Soak them for only a short time, peel the stamp off and dispose of the old paper quickly. The drips off the paper is sometimes very nasty and can stain anything it touches.
Good luck and keep us posted on your success.
Login to Like
this post
Silence in the face of adversity is the father of complicity and collusion, the first cousins of conspiracy..
18 Oct 2013
03:16:13pm
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
My procedure is essentially the same except I use old copies of the Vance Auction bid list.
I will take their advertizement apart and put two whole sheets together (Four pages ) then fold till I have a drying platform about standard letter size. As the wet stamps are placed on the paper panels, I can set the first panel off to the side and start a second and third panel. In Florida, most of the time they dry pretty fast and the stamps can be removed. The paper panels dry quickly also and can be put away and used over and over until they start to look tatty.
As the stamps separate from the cut corners I usually fish them out and set them into a second small tub of clear water which I often flush at least once before picking the washed stamps out to go on the paper drying panels so that there is no residue of th glue that will complicate matters by causing the stamps to stick to the panels.
Login to Like
this post
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
Charlie - same thing I do except I have not tried an absorbing material to place the stamps on. I think I did at one time and found that placing on a flat surface the stamps are perfectly flat when dry. I can even work wrinkles out of ones that have been abused. But you are right, get all the old gum dissolved and off the stamps before drying. Only issues are the newer self-adhesive stamps which are another whole story and process. Don't get them wet with water, use lighter fluid.
Login to Like
this post
A Service Dog gives a person with a disability independence. Never approach, distract or pet a working dog, especially when (s)he is in harness. Never be afraid to ask questions to the handler (parent).
18 Oct 2013
07:54:20pm
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
I have no problems with the soaking part - my nerves just start playing games when I see and 1850ish imperf stamp and think - Oh God, what if I destroy it by soaking it - do I really need it identified that badly??
Login to Like
this post
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
Kelly - I can appreciate your fears. When I was a young boy just getting started I destroyed lot of old stamps because I did not know what I was doing. Today, I would be able to save those expertly with no fear. If it something I think is really valuable I might soak it all by itself and stand there the whole time watching in case something goes wrong. Having something left is better than nothing at all, but this has happened so infrequently that I do not fear it anymore. Usually I damage stamps because I get impatient and do not let them soak long enough. I have actually had some that soaked for several days because I forgot about them. They all turned out just fine.
Good luck on conquering your fear.
Login to Like
this post
Silence in the face of adversity is the father of complicity and collusion, the first cousins of conspiracy..
20 Oct 2013
12:53:58pm
re: Would You Soak A Used Pre-1860?
Impatience has probably ruined as many good collectable stamps as the pernicious use of a magic marker.
I prefer to start a second batch of fifty or a hundred or so to keep my inquisitive fingers busy while the first batch dries.
As soon as the stamps are reasonably dry I slip them into another of those used Express Mail cardboard envelopes that can be either put under a very heavy history book, or shoved between albums where the envelope with its contents can be kept squeezed tightly.
Then when I have the stamps all soaked and dried, they ca be removed and sorted, generally remaining flat long enough to be mounted in a album. I believe curling is a function of residual glue having remained on the stamp and causing the stamp to want to impersonate the St Louis Arch.
" .... Only issues are the newer self-adhesive stamps which are another whole story and process. ....
More like riding the night mare across the tundra.
Login to Like
this post