Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
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05:50:27pm
Ya need a black light mate!!! Florescent papers and tagging varieties are enough to make a grown "man" cry!! Make sure you want to go there before you start. It drove my wife and I crazy until we decided it really wasn't worth the effort!! I'm not talking money since some of this "stuff" has value, I'm talking sanity!! Of course this is all my opinion! I just opened a page in a book I have that specializes in that stuff, it's a page on florescence. It talks about levels and it has dead (none), dull (5%), Lo (20%), Medium (30%), Hi (45 - 90%), and Hibrite (90% and up) as categories of paper florescence! Good luck!!!
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Harvey.....AARGH!!! I may end up following your lead.
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Was 465B issued with tagging? I thought it was only issued without, but could be wrong.
edit. Looking at Unitrade I am wrong, so as Harvey says it goes to UV light to determine which you have.
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06:09:07pm
Some series are actually easier than others. In my limited experience the Caricature Series is the worst, your stamp is from the Centennial Series and it's not quite as bad. You can buy specialist books on the different series if you decide to get into it. The person you should probably talk to is Tom (Cathotel). I decided to stay away from gum varieties, florescent papers and tagging because of my lack of patience. I have all the basic examples of Ottawa (General) and Winnipeg tagging varieties but that's as far as I decided to go! I believe Tom has delved a bit deeper!
EDIT: There is a difference between tagging strips and florescent papers. Also different gums show up differently!! I doubt if the average seller goes there, there are probably dealers and collectors who specialize in that sort of material - crazy ones, again IMHO!!!
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I initially thought that tagging was what was meant, because it fluoresces, then the brain cell kicked in and I realised it was the paper that was the subject of the query.
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I find papers are reasonably easy. Flip a bunch of the same series (doesn't necessarily have to be the same denomination), turn off the bright lights, and switch on your black light. The fluorescent papers should be fairly obvious - binary yes/no that is. But the low, medium, high differentiations are definitely harder to distinguish (especially if you are older than 35, which some of us are)...
Tagging is not too bad (but again, a bit time consuming and subjective). Gums? Fuggetaboutit! And finding specialist collectors willing to pay the premiums? Good luck!
So, in general, it's a low-payoff activity.
But here's the good news: it's 1,137% easier than figuring out those U.S. Washington-Franklin variations - even if that is actually a high payoff activity!!!
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08:35:45pm
"But here's the good news: it's 1,137% easier than figuring out those U.S. Washington-Franklin variations - even if that is actually a high payoff activity!!!"
You're certainly right on that one!!! I really wouldn't have the patience any more to handle either job!!
EDIT: This is very important!! If you decide to start collecting tagged stamps you have to be very careful! The tagging can migrate to other stamps and many collectors consider it damage if stamps have tagging or florescence that's not supposed to be there. I have always kept tagged stamps in "crystal mounting" to prevent this. I don't know if florescence from papers can migrate or not. Also keep tagged stamps away from non tagged stamps if possible.
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I have a had held UV light. Works great.
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09:49:49am
My hand held black light works well too! I just find the various degrees of florescence a bit difficult to judge. If you have a bunch of stamps in front of you it's not too bad but a lot of experience is needed if you only have one. Another point as well, sometimes stamps have luminescent backs and regular fronts, or visa versa. Also does anyone know if it's just the tagging that "roams" or can the luminescent papers be a problem as well?
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Since I was nominated as perhaps having some expertise to share, I will indicate that while I am interested in the various levels of florescence, I am not an expert on them. Most of my mounted varieties based upon level of florescence are based on my belief that my purchase source truly was knowledgeable. I feel most confident with my efforts if the choice is between a low level or hibrite (HB). Since gum differences were also mentioned, I can only recommend the description in Unitrade about the way to distinguish the gums. They seem less subjective than the levels of florescence. I suspect the opinion noted that the buying public is overwhelmingly not interested in seeking all of the permutations is spot on (my acquisitions are opportunistic).
Practically, I would suggest (if you acquire the requisite UV longwave lamp) assuming the baseline dull or feeling confident it is HB and not stressing over the intermediate levels if you are planning to sell the blocks according to Unitrade sub-number variety.
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Have not had much (Understatement) experience with this topic. Is there an easy way to do this. I tried Image Sleuth just for the heck of it, and was of no help.
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Back when I had a bunch! I think, therefore I am - I think! Descartes, sort of!
02 Jun 2025
05:50:27pm
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
Ya need a black light mate!!! Florescent papers and tagging varieties are enough to make a grown "man" cry!! Make sure you want to go there before you start. It drove my wife and I crazy until we decided it really wasn't worth the effort!! I'm not talking money since some of this "stuff" has value, I'm talking sanity!! Of course this is all my opinion! I just opened a page in a book I have that specializes in that stuff, it's a page on florescence. It talks about levels and it has dead (none), dull (5%), Lo (20%), Medium (30%), Hi (45 - 90%), and Hibrite (90% and up) as categories of paper florescence! Good luck!!!
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re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
Harvey.....AARGH!!! I may end up following your lead.
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re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
Was 465B issued with tagging? I thought it was only issued without, but could be wrong.
edit. Looking at Unitrade I am wrong, so as Harvey says it goes to UV light to determine which you have.
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this post
Back when I had a bunch! I think, therefore I am - I think! Descartes, sort of!
02 Jun 2025
06:09:07pm
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
Some series are actually easier than others. In my limited experience the Caricature Series is the worst, your stamp is from the Centennial Series and it's not quite as bad. You can buy specialist books on the different series if you decide to get into it. The person you should probably talk to is Tom (Cathotel). I decided to stay away from gum varieties, florescent papers and tagging because of my lack of patience. I have all the basic examples of Ottawa (General) and Winnipeg tagging varieties but that's as far as I decided to go! I believe Tom has delved a bit deeper!
EDIT: There is a difference between tagging strips and florescent papers. Also different gums show up differently!! I doubt if the average seller goes there, there are probably dealers and collectors who specialize in that sort of material - crazy ones, again IMHO!!!
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re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
I initially thought that tagging was what was meant, because it fluoresces, then the brain cell kicked in and I realised it was the paper that was the subject of the query.
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07:50:01pm
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
I find papers are reasonably easy. Flip a bunch of the same series (doesn't necessarily have to be the same denomination), turn off the bright lights, and switch on your black light. The fluorescent papers should be fairly obvious - binary yes/no that is. But the low, medium, high differentiations are definitely harder to distinguish (especially if you are older than 35, which some of us are)...
Tagging is not too bad (but again, a bit time consuming and subjective). Gums? Fuggetaboutit! And finding specialist collectors willing to pay the premiums? Good luck!
So, in general, it's a low-payoff activity.
But here's the good news: it's 1,137% easier than figuring out those U.S. Washington-Franklin variations - even if that is actually a high payoff activity!!!
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Back when I had a bunch! I think, therefore I am - I think! Descartes, sort of!
02 Jun 2025
08:35:45pm
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
"But here's the good news: it's 1,137% easier than figuring out those U.S. Washington-Franklin variations - even if that is actually a high payoff activity!!!"
You're certainly right on that one!!! I really wouldn't have the patience any more to handle either job!!
EDIT: This is very important!! If you decide to start collecting tagged stamps you have to be very careful! The tagging can migrate to other stamps and many collectors consider it damage if stamps have tagging or florescence that's not supposed to be there. I have always kept tagged stamps in "crystal mounting" to prevent this. I don't know if florescence from papers can migrate or not. Also keep tagged stamps away from non tagged stamps if possible.
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07:05:49am
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
I have a had held UV light. Works great.
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Back when I had a bunch! I think, therefore I am - I think! Descartes, sort of!
03 Jun 2025
09:49:49am
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
My hand held black light works well too! I just find the various degrees of florescence a bit difficult to judge. If you have a bunch of stamps in front of you it's not too bad but a lot of experience is needed if you only have one. Another point as well, sometimes stamps have luminescent backs and regular fronts, or visa versa. Also does anyone know if it's just the tagging that "roams" or can the luminescent papers be a problem as well?
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this post
02:56:22pm
re: Canada 465B....trying to ID Floresence
Since I was nominated as perhaps having some expertise to share, I will indicate that while I am interested in the various levels of florescence, I am not an expert on them. Most of my mounted varieties based upon level of florescence are based on my belief that my purchase source truly was knowledgeable. I feel most confident with my efforts if the choice is between a low level or hibrite (HB). Since gum differences were also mentioned, I can only recommend the description in Unitrade about the way to distinguish the gums. They seem less subjective than the levels of florescence. I suspect the opinion noted that the buying public is overwhelmingly not interested in seeking all of the permutations is spot on (my acquisitions are opportunistic).
Practically, I would suggest (if you acquire the requisite UV longwave lamp) assuming the baseline dull or feeling confident it is HB and not stressing over the intermediate levels if you are planning to sell the blocks according to Unitrade sub-number variety.
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