Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
Discussion - Member to Member Sales - Research Center
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Could you give some idea of how high the sell price would be, roughly? Not an expert but as far as I know there aren't forgeries of these. Probably forged cancellations, cleaned cancellations, reperfs, regums and etc. You could post some high quality scans of front and back for opinions.
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06:49:33pm
I have bought quite a few expensive stamps in my day and the only ones that needed to be certified were the questionable ones, the ones that could be fake! For example, stamps with overprints, since overprints are so easily faked, stamps with subtle but expensive colour shades, stamps that have errors that could be easily faked, that sort of thing. I bought a really nice copy of the Bluenose "man on the mast" error, a certificate was provided since it could be easily faked. I bought an early Batum stamp from an SOR seller who had it certified because of the easily faked overprint. I bought a great copy of US #37a from an SOR seller which was certified because of a colour shade. If I was selling a stamp that could possibly be a fake I would have it certified if the value of the stamp justified it. There's the early Poland overprints that are almost always fake but in some cases they are not expensive enough to justify a certificate. The more expensive ones would need to be certified, also the Cuba Puerto Principe Series, except some of them are not really costly enough to justify it. I would want to see a certificate if a stamp could be questionable (and pricey) not just because it is pricey. Remember, this is just my opinion!!
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07:20:54pm
The only stamps of the Victoria Maple Leaf series that would be worth certifying would be superb never hinged (i.e. perfectly centered) 10c and 20c. (Scott 83 and 84) These would be worth sending to an auction house as premium copies that may go for more than catalogue value. Anything less than superb NH, is uncomplicated and would not warrant the cost to certify.
The gum on these is distinctive. Compare it to the gum on a low value Maple Leaf. They were not in use very long, so there are few printing variations (unlike the Admirals).
Roy
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I'll post pics. Glad I asked, and grateful for the feedback. Goof folks here.
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09:55:27am
Sorry, I just realized my comments apply to the Queen Victoria Numeral series. However the same applies to the 10c Maple Leaves issue (#73).
Roy
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Oops! the 20 cent is the numeral issue. The 10 cent is certainly a poorer image of the two stamps. And
ignore what looks like a wart on the nose. I had glassine over these so flatten them.
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01:36:18pm
My suspicion is that your #73 is regummed. The first hint is that the gum appears too white.
More importantly is the nature of the ends of the perfs. There do not appear to be any paper fibers on the ends of the perfs. and they appear to be covered in gum:
The best test is to run your thumb and fore-finger lightly down the sides of the stamp while you hold it in your tongs. If the perfs feel spikey, rather than soft, it's regummed. That's the gum solidified on the ends of the perfs. That is not a natural state for a stamp, as the perforation is done after the gum is applied. Also, under a 10x glass, any gum of the front side of the stamp around the perfs is a give-away for regummed stamps.
Roy
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I'll give it a feel Roy. Thanks.
I don't suppose you verify that it's been regummed?
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I did the tip feel test and cannot tell the difference in either of these stamps. I then tested lower denom stamps from same series, and can tell no difference.
Under 10x, I'm also seeing tiny fibers on tips pf both.
Not arguing, I just want the ID to be accurate, and get more schooled on regumming.. Is there anyone out there that might be willing to have a look if I sent them to you?
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If it helps any, I completely agree with Roy's take on the regum.
Stamps should have lots of fuzzy paper fibers (see below) sticking out from the torn perfs. When they are missing and at times pasted together it is a clear sign of being regumed.
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I have two Canadian Victoria Maple Leaf issue stamps...higher denom, one mint nh, one unused that I'm thinking of getting certified. Never have done this before. I'm a relatively new seller, and I'm thinking a cert might help with higher value stamps. Any thoughts?
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06:29:01pm
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
Could you give some idea of how high the sell price would be, roughly? Not an expert but as far as I know there aren't forgeries of these. Probably forged cancellations, cleaned cancellations, reperfs, regums and etc. You could post some high quality scans of front and back for opinions.
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This is my diabetic cat OBI! I think, therefore I am - I think! Descartes, sort of!
19 Dec 2022
06:49:33pm
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
I have bought quite a few expensive stamps in my day and the only ones that needed to be certified were the questionable ones, the ones that could be fake! For example, stamps with overprints, since overprints are so easily faked, stamps with subtle but expensive colour shades, stamps that have errors that could be easily faked, that sort of thing. I bought a really nice copy of the Bluenose "man on the mast" error, a certificate was provided since it could be easily faked. I bought an early Batum stamp from an SOR seller who had it certified because of the easily faked overprint. I bought a great copy of US #37a from an SOR seller which was certified because of a colour shade. If I was selling a stamp that could possibly be a fake I would have it certified if the value of the stamp justified it. There's the early Poland overprints that are almost always fake but in some cases they are not expensive enough to justify a certificate. The more expensive ones would need to be certified, also the Cuba Puerto Principe Series, except some of them are not really costly enough to justify it. I would want to see a certificate if a stamp could be questionable (and pricey) not just because it is pricey. Remember, this is just my opinion!!
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19 Dec 2022
07:20:54pm
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
The only stamps of the Victoria Maple Leaf series that would be worth certifying would be superb never hinged (i.e. perfectly centered) 10c and 20c. (Scott 83 and 84) These would be worth sending to an auction house as premium copies that may go for more than catalogue value. Anything less than superb NH, is uncomplicated and would not warrant the cost to certify.
The gum on these is distinctive. Compare it to the gum on a low value Maple Leaf. They were not in use very long, so there are few printing variations (unlike the Admirals).
Roy
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re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
I'll post pics. Glad I asked, and grateful for the feedback. Goof folks here.
1 Member
likes this post.
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BuckaCover.com - 80,000 covers priced 60c to $1.50 - Easy browsing 500 categories
20 Dec 2022
09:55:27am
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
Sorry, I just realized my comments apply to the Queen Victoria Numeral series. However the same applies to the 10c Maple Leaves issue (#73).
Roy
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this post
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
Oops! the 20 cent is the numeral issue. The 10 cent is certainly a poorer image of the two stamps. And
ignore what looks like a wart on the nose. I had glassine over these so flatten them.
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BuckaCover.com - 80,000 covers priced 60c to $1.50 - Easy browsing 500 categories
20 Dec 2022
01:36:18pm
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
My suspicion is that your #73 is regummed. The first hint is that the gum appears too white.
More importantly is the nature of the ends of the perfs. There do not appear to be any paper fibers on the ends of the perfs. and they appear to be covered in gum:
The best test is to run your thumb and fore-finger lightly down the sides of the stamp while you hold it in your tongs. If the perfs feel spikey, rather than soft, it's regummed. That's the gum solidified on the ends of the perfs. That is not a natural state for a stamp, as the perforation is done after the gum is applied. Also, under a 10x glass, any gum of the front side of the stamp around the perfs is a give-away for regummed stamps.
Roy
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re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
I'll give it a feel Roy. Thanks.
I don't suppose you verify that it's been regummed?
Login to Like
this post
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
I did the tip feel test and cannot tell the difference in either of these stamps. I then tested lower denom stamps from same series, and can tell no difference.
Under 10x, I'm also seeing tiny fibers on tips pf both.
Not arguing, I just want the ID to be accurate, and get more schooled on regumming.. Is there anyone out there that might be willing to have a look if I sent them to you?
Login to Like
this post
re: Where would go for a certification? Or would you?
If it helps any, I completely agree with Roy's take on the regum.
Stamps should have lots of fuzzy paper fibers (see below) sticking out from the torn perfs. When they are missing and at times pasted together it is a clear sign of being regumed.
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