Hello rob1956
Thanks for this post.
I do not have the SG catalog and for this reason I do not collect Anglo-Saxon stamps at the moment. These posts increase the interest for this area for beginner collectors like me.
Unfortunately (due to not knowing the language and not even having a stamp of this type), many of the explanations do not understand them.
Some examples:
Where is the crack area of the plate? (Preferably mark on the stamp)
What does thin or thick paper mean (preferably writing the size ... 0.05,6,7 mm?)
Perforation with large or small holes (preferably post next to 2 stamps with this difference)
These wishes of mine are sure not to be needed for collectors who hold these types of stamps but for new beginners collectors are needed.
Thanks again and I look forward to continuing.
Hi gerom
Even though I have a SG catalogue, I never use it for referencing pre-decimal and early decimal stamps, I always use what is known as the ACSC (Australian Commonwealth Specialists’ Catalogue), it is a far better catalogue for referencing early Australian stamps.
Plate cracks and plate fractures is the same, cracks are caused when the plate wears from excessive use and fractures start to appear, they can be categorised into various states of fracturing, early and late.
During the reign of King George VI the 1938 ½d kangaroo, existed 3 various states of a plate cracking, very early, early and late; I have all three, the very early fracture is the only one known; these fractures were caused by a printer by the name of W.C.G. McCracken who didn't want to waste available stock of paper and the original plates belonging to the former printer John Ash.
Instead of ordering a new set of plates with his personal imprint, he used the plates belonging to John Ash, burnishing (removing) Ash's imprint and replaced it with his own, unbeknownst to him, this weakened the plates and soon cracks started to appear at the bottom of the imprint, on top of the imprint and through the imprint.
The paper thickness is important to know when collecting early Australian stamps, as thin paper is scarcer than thick paper, and in some cases a micrometer (a gauge reader for paper) must be used to determine whether or not the paper is really thin.
Thick paper
0.083mm and 0.091mm
Thin paper
0.070mm and 0.075mm
Again, in the reign of King George VI, thin paper was used with certain images, some can be extremely rare and worth a few thousand dollars each, where other thin papers can be worth from around $40 to $100.
With the Queen Elizabeth II issues, no thin paper was ever issued though levels of paper thickness were issued; all papers shown on my thread are thick paper, albeit different gauges.
The thick paper is 0.091mm, whereas the thinner paper is 0.079, it is still within the official thickness gauge.
I have a few stamps with the large and small holes, the 1949 King George VI ½d block of 4 with coil perforations (horizontal line). There are non-coil perforations with large holes but I do not have those particular perforations yet.
1949 ½d with coil perforations
Rob
Hi Rob
Just when I thought it was safe to go back into the water.
I have hundreds of used copies of the 5d, so here I go again, off on a tangent.
Love your posts, not only do they explain what to look for, but give me an interesting diversion.
Regards
Horamakhet
Hi Horamakhet
I like to be thorough when I post information about the stamps I have, and as you say my post explains what to look for. There is more to add, especially the 5d blue proof I am hoping to get soon, only 8 exist.
There are other varieties and re-entries involving the 1959 5d blue, so it's going to be an active post for a little while yet.
Rob
Hi rob1956,
Thank you for the additional explanations.
The small difference between the two types of paper I think makes them difficult to identify by thickness.
Hi gerom
The small difference can make a big difference to some stamps, but in the case of the thick and thinner stamps on this thread there isn't much of a difference, but that small difference gives the block of 4 some distance and is a variety in its own right.
Rob
I can measure the thickness only with 0.01 mm accurately.For me is difficult to identify two paper 0.075 or 0.083. I think environmental conditions are required during the measurement.
Hi gerom
If you are using a micrometer, the stamp must be unused and free from any defects that could interfere with the testing, such as damaged gum, no gum and paper thinning. Also the gauge numbers I posted are for mint unhinged Australian pre-decimal stamps and not for foreign stamps as different countries use different paper and paper thickness and different gum.
Used stamps have no gum and the cancellation ink severely affects the true gauge of the stamp as the stamp is tested with the gum intact; so testing a used stamp is ineffective.
Used stamps can have thinning caused by small parts of gum still attached to the backing paper when removed.
But if you are using a micrometer, the use of the machine should not make any difference if using foreign stamps, but you will need to know what gauge number you are looking for first.
Close the clamp and reset the machine to 0.000 and then open the clamp just wide enough to fit the stamp into, then gently close the clamp and read the gauge, open the clamp and remove the stamp, close the clamp and read the gauge again, deduct the new gauge number that appears after closing the clamp to the gauge number of the stamp and you will have the thickness of the stamp.
Always measure from the middle of the stamp. If you are not using a micrometer, how did you come to the gauge number 0.01 mm?
Rob
Hi Rob
The paper thick dimension is on mm or inch?
See my measure gauge with two scale:
I have germany stamps with normal paper thick (0.06-0.08mm)cat.value 0.4Euro and with thinner paper (smaller 0.06mm)cat.value 15Euro.
Due to the accuracy of the measuring device I cannot identify the paper thickness(Indication 0.06mm):
Hi Gerom
You are using the wrong tool, what you are using is a digital caliper, for stamps you would need to use a digital micrometer.
A caliper can damage a stamp if you need to tighten the grip. With a micrometer it sits flat on the stamp giving an accurate reading. The caliper may be very good for measuring metal but it is not recommended for stamp measurements as the reading will be incorrect.
Micrometers are more accurate and suit the needs to measure the thickness of paper. What this means is that a caliper measurement of 0.500? could be considered to be within 0.499? and 0.501?, and a micrometer measurement of 0.50000? could be considered to be between 0.49995? and 0.50005?, if there are no other errors or uncertainties involved.
Digital Micrometer
Rob
Hi Rob
Thanks for your advice. I thought professional micrometers cost over 200E.
I searched the net and found an advantageous offer (55E) If my stamp paper is less than 0.06mm, the investment is amortized with a few stamps on the sheet.
If they are not smaller, you have convinced me that I need a micrometer.
Hi gerom
Professional Digital micrometers are not cheap but such a micrometer is not necessary, the micrometer I have is just a basic micrometer that cost me 61.37 euro (A$100). It does the job accurately and professional dealers use these micrometers.
I don't think you will find any stamp paper that measures 0.06 - 0.08mm, as these figures are incorrect as stamp paper from any part of the world would have a 4 digit measurement.
I have German stamps and will measure them and will give you an idea of the gauge numbers. But if you do get a proper micrometer, your measurements will be much better.
Rob
The re-introduction of a 5d definitive, featuring Elizabeth II, was required as a result of a postal rates increase coming into effect on October 1, 1959. The portrait on the new stamp is based on a Baron Studios photograph of the Queen wearing the sash of the Order of the Garter.
Designed by G. Lissenden of the Note Printing Branch, Melbourne; the original die of the 2½d denomination was by Peter Morriss, the 2½d was not required under the new postal rates and instead used for the re-introduction of the 5d.
1959 5d Booklet pane of 6 - Type B
The booklet stamps were issued on March 23rd 1960 on non-watermarked paper: Perforation 14.88 x 14.10 comb (15 x 14). Booklets consist of a pane of 6 (3 rows of 2) and are imperforate on the left, right and bottom edges. Quantity printed: 668,160,000, of which 583,547,404 stamps were delivered to the Post Office in booklets, quantities of both Types A and B are unknown.
There is only 1 error sheet known with just 10 examples being imperforate at left between the stamp and the sheet margin. There is no known Type A of this extremely rare error. This stamp is Type B, from row 41, stamp 1 as cited from its Ceremuga Certificate #13538.
Types A and B are also seen on the regular issues of the 1959 5d blue.
To explain what is Type A and Type B. The two types of this stamp are the result of a 2-on secondary die being used, the two types occur in alternate horizontal rows in both the ordinary sheets and coils.
Type A shows 4 shading lines in the loop of the “5”; the shading lines shown on the top left of the “d” is short. And Type B shows 5 shading lines in the loop of the “5”; the shading lines shown on the top left of the “d” are long and also extends under the top serif of the “d”.
Type A
Type B
Type A - 4 shading lines in the loop of the “5”
Type B - 5 shading lines in the loop of the “5”
Type A - Shading lines shown on the top left of the “d” is short
Type B - shading lines shown on the top left of the “d” are long and also extends under the top serif of the “d”
PLATE FRACTURES (CRACKS)
These examples show some of the plate fractures of the 5d blue, hopefully I will be able to add more plate fractures as they become available.
Three electros exhibited plate fractures through the central large perforation pip of Sheet A. Two were on issue in early 1961; the third was from 1963. In each case the fractures can be found in several states.
The states of these fractures are known as Early Electro A “I”; Late Electro A “I”. Electro A “II” and Electro A “III”.
Two electros exhibited plate fractures through the large perforation pip of Sheet B. Both were on issue in 1962-63, and can be found in several states. The fractures are listed as Late Electro B “I”; Early Electro B “II” and Late Electro B “III”
Electro A I - Late fracture
Electro A II - Early fracture
Electro A II - Late fracture
Electro A II - Late fracture
Electro B I Late fracture
VARIOUS PAPERS
The 5d blue was also issued in white and cream papers, as well as thick and thinner papers (the thinner paper is actually thick paper but slightly less than the normal thickness gauge).
Thick Cream paper (5 shading lines)
Thinner white paper (4 shading lines)
RE-ENTRY
Thick Cream paper - RE-ENTRY (Pencilled arrow pointing to re-entry in void line)
COIL PERFORATION
The block of 4 shown has a coil perforation. The provision of stamps in rolls for use in vending machines continued the pattern that had been established in the previous reign. All coil stamps during the reign of Queen Elizabeth II show the special large and small hole horizontal perforations. The use of false coils, for example coils made up from sheets with ordinary perforation, was much less frequent.
Coil Block of 4 (4 shading lines)
In the near future, hopefully, I will add proofs and more varieties.
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hello rob1956
Thanks for this post.
I do not have the SG catalog and for this reason I do not collect Anglo-Saxon stamps at the moment. These posts increase the interest for this area for beginner collectors like me.
Unfortunately (due to not knowing the language and not even having a stamp of this type), many of the explanations do not understand them.
Some examples:
Where is the crack area of the plate? (Preferably mark on the stamp)
What does thin or thick paper mean (preferably writing the size ... 0.05,6,7 mm?)
Perforation with large or small holes (preferably post next to 2 stamps with this difference)
These wishes of mine are sure not to be needed for collectors who hold these types of stamps but for new beginners collectors are needed.
Thanks again and I look forward to continuing.
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi gerom
Even though I have a SG catalogue, I never use it for referencing pre-decimal and early decimal stamps, I always use what is known as the ACSC (Australian Commonwealth Specialists’ Catalogue), it is a far better catalogue for referencing early Australian stamps.
Plate cracks and plate fractures is the same, cracks are caused when the plate wears from excessive use and fractures start to appear, they can be categorised into various states of fracturing, early and late.
During the reign of King George VI the 1938 ½d kangaroo, existed 3 various states of a plate cracking, very early, early and late; I have all three, the very early fracture is the only one known; these fractures were caused by a printer by the name of W.C.G. McCracken who didn't want to waste available stock of paper and the original plates belonging to the former printer John Ash.
Instead of ordering a new set of plates with his personal imprint, he used the plates belonging to John Ash, burnishing (removing) Ash's imprint and replaced it with his own, unbeknownst to him, this weakened the plates and soon cracks started to appear at the bottom of the imprint, on top of the imprint and through the imprint.
The paper thickness is important to know when collecting early Australian stamps, as thin paper is scarcer than thick paper, and in some cases a micrometer (a gauge reader for paper) must be used to determine whether or not the paper is really thin.
Thick paper
0.083mm and 0.091mm
Thin paper
0.070mm and 0.075mm
Again, in the reign of King George VI, thin paper was used with certain images, some can be extremely rare and worth a few thousand dollars each, where other thin papers can be worth from around $40 to $100.
With the Queen Elizabeth II issues, no thin paper was ever issued though levels of paper thickness were issued; all papers shown on my thread are thick paper, albeit different gauges.
The thick paper is 0.091mm, whereas the thinner paper is 0.079, it is still within the official thickness gauge.
I have a few stamps with the large and small holes, the 1949 King George VI ½d block of 4 with coil perforations (horizontal line). There are non-coil perforations with large holes but I do not have those particular perforations yet.
1949 ½d with coil perforations
Rob
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi Rob
Just when I thought it was safe to go back into the water.
I have hundreds of used copies of the 5d, so here I go again, off on a tangent.
Love your posts, not only do they explain what to look for, but give me an interesting diversion.
Regards
Horamakhet
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi Horamakhet
I like to be thorough when I post information about the stamps I have, and as you say my post explains what to look for. There is more to add, especially the 5d blue proof I am hoping to get soon, only 8 exist.
There are other varieties and re-entries involving the 1959 5d blue, so it's going to be an active post for a little while yet.
Rob
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi rob1956,
Thank you for the additional explanations.
The small difference between the two types of paper I think makes them difficult to identify by thickness.
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi gerom
The small difference can make a big difference to some stamps, but in the case of the thick and thinner stamps on this thread there isn't much of a difference, but that small difference gives the block of 4 some distance and is a variety in its own right.
Rob
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
I can measure the thickness only with 0.01 mm accurately.For me is difficult to identify two paper 0.075 or 0.083. I think environmental conditions are required during the measurement.
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi gerom
If you are using a micrometer, the stamp must be unused and free from any defects that could interfere with the testing, such as damaged gum, no gum and paper thinning. Also the gauge numbers I posted are for mint unhinged Australian pre-decimal stamps and not for foreign stamps as different countries use different paper and paper thickness and different gum.
Used stamps have no gum and the cancellation ink severely affects the true gauge of the stamp as the stamp is tested with the gum intact; so testing a used stamp is ineffective.
Used stamps can have thinning caused by small parts of gum still attached to the backing paper when removed.
But if you are using a micrometer, the use of the machine should not make any difference if using foreign stamps, but you will need to know what gauge number you are looking for first.
Close the clamp and reset the machine to 0.000 and then open the clamp just wide enough to fit the stamp into, then gently close the clamp and read the gauge, open the clamp and remove the stamp, close the clamp and read the gauge again, deduct the new gauge number that appears after closing the clamp to the gauge number of the stamp and you will have the thickness of the stamp.
Always measure from the middle of the stamp. If you are not using a micrometer, how did you come to the gauge number 0.01 mm?
Rob
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi Rob
The paper thick dimension is on mm or inch?
See my measure gauge with two scale:
I have germany stamps with normal paper thick (0.06-0.08mm)cat.value 0.4Euro and with thinner paper (smaller 0.06mm)cat.value 15Euro.
Due to the accuracy of the measuring device I cannot identify the paper thickness(Indication 0.06mm):
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi Gerom
You are using the wrong tool, what you are using is a digital caliper, for stamps you would need to use a digital micrometer.
A caliper can damage a stamp if you need to tighten the grip. With a micrometer it sits flat on the stamp giving an accurate reading. The caliper may be very good for measuring metal but it is not recommended for stamp measurements as the reading will be incorrect.
Micrometers are more accurate and suit the needs to measure the thickness of paper. What this means is that a caliper measurement of 0.500? could be considered to be within 0.499? and 0.501?, and a micrometer measurement of 0.50000? could be considered to be between 0.49995? and 0.50005?, if there are no other errors or uncertainties involved.
Digital Micrometer
Rob
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi Rob
Thanks for your advice. I thought professional micrometers cost over 200E.
I searched the net and found an advantageous offer (55E) If my stamp paper is less than 0.06mm, the investment is amortized with a few stamps on the sheet.
If they are not smaller, you have convinced me that I need a micrometer.
re: Study of the 1959 5d Blue and its Varieties
Hi gerom
Professional Digital micrometers are not cheap but such a micrometer is not necessary, the micrometer I have is just a basic micrometer that cost me 61.37 euro (A$100). It does the job accurately and professional dealers use these micrometers.
I don't think you will find any stamp paper that measures 0.06 - 0.08mm, as these figures are incorrect as stamp paper from any part of the world would have a 4 digit measurement.
I have German stamps and will measure them and will give you an idea of the gauge numbers. But if you do get a proper micrometer, your measurements will be much better.
Rob