Very classy looking...more like a printed book with bleed on right edge.
What fonts did you use?
I agree!
Elegant looking page.
What numbering system are you using?
You don't have to put holes in your pages. Some folks buy page holders that hold an entire 8.5x11 sheet, and that page holder fits in a 3 ring binder.
"My biggest concern is the holes in the pages getting torn and damage through use. If anyone has some hot tips I'd love to know how you went with creating your own albums and any problems you didn't think of at first.
"
I make a lot of my own pages, but I print one sided on card stock (a little more than 3 times as thick as printer paper) and use hole reinforcement labels (like Avery 6755) on the back of the holes on every single page. I find the thicker paper and reinforcements do the trick.
Lars
"Very classy looking...more like a printed book with bleed on right edge.
What fonts did you use?"
"What numbering system are you using?"
I've recently started making my own pages. I have a specialized Germany collection with focus on issues before 1940. I've made my own pages for my Frankfurt am Main covers, pre annexation by Prussia and an album for World War One material. I just started on my German Empire issues. These have been housed in Scott specialty binders, but over the decades the pages have been cluttered and my handwriting has deteriorated with age. This is a learning experience. Some pages I'll revisit to improve them. Some are just fine.
I use an older WordPerfect Program. It's easy to format. I try to keep my pages simple, though I add descriptions and illustrations where I think necessary. Here is an example.
Here is another example of one of my home-made pages from my German Empire album. When I finally complete this project, I'll move on to the Wiemar Republic issues.
" .... The biggest disadvantage with the Lighthouse pages
and protectors is the price, they are horrendously expensive, ...."
Probably so, but a close second that might not be apparent yet
will be the weight of a two or three inch binder.
As the albums fill, and you age, this will be something to allow
for at the start
I had my Machin reference collection on Vario pages in 2½" binders,
which became impossible to handle, on high shelves to desk, or table,
from a wheelchair. The cure was simple, use 1" or 1½" binders, but
that led to some challenging decisions as to where to make the most
logical break points.
Yes, a large binder full of vario is heavy even without the stamps!
I'm a young bloke so I've got plenty of time to sort things out before the albums get too heavy for me.
I've also stumbled on that Canada Post has free international shipping on some of their products. I would be able to get some of the lighthouse binders for nearly half price compared to what I would get in Australia. Although they would be 3 Ring not the usual 4 ring we have here in Australia.
For those that have rows of binders and stockbooks etc... whats your method of labeling the spine to distinguish one from the other?
1. By using page protectors and not using hole punching you get more space in addition to putting them back to back. A4 is slightly narrower and taller than US letter size.
2. He found a source for page protectors that are clear around hole punching so you do not see branding. Many page protectors show brand name.
If you use page protectors, the benefit of 4 ring over 3 ring is reduced.
Clive's pages have two aspects that may not been mentioned.
When making clone album pages to match my pre-printed Mystic album pages I noticed that my page text, borders, and images had blacker blacks. The same is true with Scott album pages. After some experiments, you can adjust the level of black (in software or printer driver) to more closer simulate a offset/litho printed page vs a laser or inkjet printed page if that is important.
"Probably so, but a close second that might not be apparent yet
will be the weight of a two or three inch binder.
As the albums fill, and you age, this will be something to allow
for at the start."
"When making clone album pages to match my pre-printed Mystic album pages I noticed that my page text, borders, and images had blacker blacks. The same is true with Scott album pages. After some experiments, you can adjust the level of black (in software or printer driver) to more closer simulate a offset/litho printed page vs a laser or inkjet printed page if that is important. "
I'm venturing into making my own album pages to give some sort of structure to my existing collection. Currently most of my collection is in stock books laid out by year with some more organised than others.
I'm starting with my Canada collection and using it as a test as its one of the more unorganized ones. I only have a faint idea what stamps I'm missing and haven't had a chance to really delve into varieties. This is what a typical page looks like:
And this is what I've made up:
I've bought a 4 ring binder from lighthouse as to match my stockbooks. Going ahead i'm going to start printing pages off to make sure they work with the hole punching, attaching mounts and work well in practice before producing all the rest.
Even know taking that picture I'm realizing the special delivery stamp would be suited below the peace stamps and the Alexander Bell stamp to the next page. All part of the process!
My biggest concern is the holes in the pages getting torn and damage through use. If anyone has some hot tips I'd love to know how you went with creating your own albums and any problems you didn't think of at first.
re: Making my own album
Very classy looking...more like a printed book with bleed on right edge.
What fonts did you use?
re: Making my own album
I agree!
Elegant looking page.
What numbering system are you using?
re: Making my own album
You don't have to put holes in your pages. Some folks buy page holders that hold an entire 8.5x11 sheet, and that page holder fits in a 3 ring binder.
re: Making my own album
"My biggest concern is the holes in the pages getting torn and damage through use. If anyone has some hot tips I'd love to know how you went with creating your own albums and any problems you didn't think of at first.
"
re: Making my own album
I make a lot of my own pages, but I print one sided on card stock (a little more than 3 times as thick as printer paper) and use hole reinforcement labels (like Avery 6755) on the back of the holes on every single page. I find the thicker paper and reinforcements do the trick.
Lars
re: Making my own album
"Very classy looking...more like a printed book with bleed on right edge.
What fonts did you use?"
"What numbering system are you using?"
re: Making my own album
I've recently started making my own pages. I have a specialized Germany collection with focus on issues before 1940. I've made my own pages for my Frankfurt am Main covers, pre annexation by Prussia and an album for World War One material. I just started on my German Empire issues. These have been housed in Scott specialty binders, but over the decades the pages have been cluttered and my handwriting has deteriorated with age. This is a learning experience. Some pages I'll revisit to improve them. Some are just fine.
I use an older WordPerfect Program. It's easy to format. I try to keep my pages simple, though I add descriptions and illustrations where I think necessary. Here is an example.
re: Making my own album
Here is another example of one of my home-made pages from my German Empire album. When I finally complete this project, I'll move on to the Wiemar Republic issues.
re: Making my own album
" .... The biggest disadvantage with the Lighthouse pages
and protectors is the price, they are horrendously expensive, ...."
Probably so, but a close second that might not be apparent yet
will be the weight of a two or three inch binder.
As the albums fill, and you age, this will be something to allow
for at the start
I had my Machin reference collection on Vario pages in 2½" binders,
which became impossible to handle, on high shelves to desk, or table,
from a wheelchair. The cure was simple, use 1" or 1½" binders, but
that led to some challenging decisions as to where to make the most
logical break points.
re: Making my own album
Yes, a large binder full of vario is heavy even without the stamps!
re: Making my own album
I'm a young bloke so I've got plenty of time to sort things out before the albums get too heavy for me.
I've also stumbled on that Canada Post has free international shipping on some of their products. I would be able to get some of the lighthouse binders for nearly half price compared to what I would get in Australia. Although they would be 3 Ring not the usual 4 ring we have here in Australia.
For those that have rows of binders and stockbooks etc... whats your method of labeling the spine to distinguish one from the other?
re: Making my own album
1. By using page protectors and not using hole punching you get more space in addition to putting them back to back. A4 is slightly narrower and taller than US letter size.
2. He found a source for page protectors that are clear around hole punching so you do not see branding. Many page protectors show brand name.
If you use page protectors, the benefit of 4 ring over 3 ring is reduced.
Clive's pages have two aspects that may not been mentioned.
re: Making my own album
When making clone album pages to match my pre-printed Mystic album pages I noticed that my page text, borders, and images had blacker blacks. The same is true with Scott album pages. After some experiments, you can adjust the level of black (in software or printer driver) to more closer simulate a offset/litho printed page vs a laser or inkjet printed page if that is important.
re: Making my own album
"Probably so, but a close second that might not be apparent yet
will be the weight of a two or three inch binder.
As the albums fill, and you age, this will be something to allow
for at the start."
re: Making my own album
"When making clone album pages to match my pre-printed Mystic album pages I noticed that my page text, borders, and images had blacker blacks. The same is true with Scott album pages. After some experiments, you can adjust the level of black (in software or printer driver) to more closer simulate a offset/litho printed page vs a laser or inkjet printed page if that is important. "